Super presoak dilution

Cdn_detailer

New member
Hi Mike. 3D website says 1/4 teaspoon to 32oz of water. This seems real low, and less than the amount you used in your recent YouTube video regarding this product.

a live viewer commented pretty much the same and you said you would talk to Tunch. Just wondering if you have spoken to him?
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
No - have not spoken to him about this as we went into a holiday weekend, (Memorial Day).

I actually wrote all the copy you find on the new 3D website and I wrote that copy. I'm trying to remember how I came up with these measurements but at the time the amount of concentrate seemed really small.

I actually HATE doing dilution work even though I've written a number or articles on this topic in my life. Let me do some research and get back to you on whether or not these are accurate and if not - I'll have Charlie change them to whatever it the correct amount.

The BIGGER PICTURE is anytime you purchase any of our 3D Nano Pail products - order at the same time the pump that we offer for them as it is designed to meter out 3/4 of an ounce with each pump.

Then when starting out with any of our Nano Pail products, measure ONE PUMP for 30 ounces of water in a 32 ounce bottle. After using the product at this general use dilution - if you feel you need a stronger dilution for the type of detailing work you're doing - then add a second pump etc.


:)
 

Cdn_detailer

New member
1/4 tsp to 32 oz water is like 750 parts water to 1 part solution. (750 + 1 / 32 = .0146 oz).

just seems kinda low. Starting at an oz seems more realistic. Was just scared at that dilution it’d melt the entire car, lol. (Jk).

and to clarify this product is not for regular washing. It’s for decontaminating prior to polishing? You mention it takes off old wax and sealant. how hard is it on new wax and sealant?
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
1/4 tsp to 32 oz water is like 750 parts water to 1 part solution. (750 + 1 / 32 = .0146 oz).

So I do my research very carefully before I publish and article and my guess is I went of the directions on the label.

full


HAND DILUTION: 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce per 5 gallons

The above is what is printed on the label. Because some if not most people are going to use a 32 ounce spray bottle - I re-did the math for a 32 ounce bottle.

1 gallon - 128 ounces

128 divided by 32 - 4

So if the recommended hand dilution or spray bottle dilution is 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce for 5 gallons then let's go with the higher number, the 1 ounce per 5 gallons.

If we divide 1 ounce by 5 we get .20 of an ounce per gallon. There are 4 32 ounce bottles in a gallon so divide .20 by 4 and we get .05

I think the 1/4 tsp to 32 ounces is correct for a weak dilution and a person can modify from there.

I HATE doing dilutions so please, any math wizards feel free to correct.



just seems kinda low. Starting at an oz seems more realistic. Was just scared at that dilution it’d melt the entire car, lol. (Jk).

Copy that - always best to do your research first versus make a mistake.


and to clarify this product is not for regular washing. It’s for decontaminating prior to polishing? You mention it takes off old wax and sealant. how hard is it on new wax and sealant?

Correct. This is for PRE-WASH - the idea is to dissolve and loosen existing road grime, traffic film and other accumulated dirt BEFORE washing with a normal car wash soap and a wash mitt.

:)
 
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Cdn_detailer

New member
Well if that’s the case then this presoak is one heck of a concentrated liquid, and even if I “double upped” and used as a decon wash twice a year for 2 cars, this is one of the best values in my lifetime.
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
Well if that’s the case then this presoak is one heck of a concentrated liquid, and even if I “double upped” and used as a decon wash twice a year for 2 cars, this is one of the best values in my lifetime.

I remember struggling with writing the web copy for this product simply because I don't like doing math and conceptualizing using such small amounts for products like this is a tick difficulty for my own brain to process BUT - like I said, as a writer, and knowing there are Trolls that like to play, Gotcha! I'm know I invested time into figuring out the math and I will admit - even to me it seems like very little product.

I'm leaving for Waxstock on Thursday and before I leave a have ton of hot projects to complete, so while I would love to spend all day on figuring out IF 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce for 5 gallons is the same as 1/4 teaspoon for 31 ounces of water in a 32 ounce bottle - I'm hoping some math genius will lay it out better than I.


:)
 

Cdn_detailer

New member
Seems like the ratios,are correct. But for a foam cannon what do you recommend? That throws things off a bit.

So to clarify this is a pre soak prior to washing. This is NOT a decon soap? Is there actually such a thing? Marketing?

I’m looking to strip wash cars prior to polishing
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
Seems like the ratios,are correct. But for a foam cannon what do you recommend? That throws things off a bit.

Most foam cannons have a 1 liter reservoir for your soap solution - if it were me, I would add one full pump of the 3D pail pumps. The 3D pump measures out 3/4 ounce of product. Start here and then adjust to suit your detailing projects.


So to clarify this is a pre soak prior to washing. This is NOT a decon soap? Is there actually such a thing? Marketing?

This is a pre-soak wash that dissolves and loosens road grime, dirt and traffic film. If your definition of "decontamination" means to remove unwanted dirt and grime of the exterior of a car then this is a decontamination wash. If you definition of "decontamination" means an iron remover - this is not an iron remover. That said, a deep clean like you get with Super Pre-Soak will in my experience remove all topical iron contamination and even some of the bonded tiron contamination.

If you're going to do any type of paint correction AFTER washing with Super Pre-Soak - then I would skip a dedicated iron remover.

I’m looking to strip wash cars prior to polishing

This is the product you're looking for.


:)
 

Cdn_detailer

New member
Most foam cannons have a 1 liter reservoir for your soap solution - if it were me, I would add one full pump of the 3D pail pumps. The 3D pump measures out 3/4 ounce of product. Start here and then adjust to suit your detailing projects.




This is a pre-soak wash that dissolves and loosens road grime, dirt and traffic film. If your definition of "decontamination" means to remove unwanted dirt and grime of the exterior of a car then this is a decontamination wash. If you definition of "decontamination" means an iron remover - this is not an iron remover. That said, a deep clean like you get with Super Pre-Soak will in my experience remove all topical iron contamination and even some of the bonded tiron contamination.

If you're going to do any type of paint correction AFTER washing with Super Pre-Soak - then I would skip a dedicated iron remover.



This is the product you're looking for.


:)

My bi annual polish process:

1. Presoak dry car with APC (soon to be replaced with 3D super presoak) allow,dwell
2. Rinse, dry off horizontal panels, spray car with iron remover, let dwell…
3. Without rinsing, foam car with car shampoo, wash car……
4. Without rinsing “wash” again with clay mitt/pad, etc
5. Rinse thoughougly and dry
5. Polish / seal/wax, etc.

Trying to reduce steps (as I get older) I.e I used to rinse after each presoak, then dry, then iron remover, then dry, then clay, etc.

And by decontamination wash I mean a throughout deep clean as you put it “surgical”. I was led to believe a decon wash removes wax and sealant too although I’m not convinced this is need as the polish step does this (as does the clay)

While I have your ear…. I’m switching over to 3D products (already using one, speed, and towel kleen). None of my Canadian retailers are selling supersoak. Is this a 3D decision or an individual retailer decision?
 

opie

Member
Just seeing this so a little late to discussion. I love super pre soak, as well as super soap. I use them both.

.5 oz in my 32 oz foam cannon does the trick for me. I use it on my dd as it sees alot of traffic film. It does a superb job of breaking it down.

I have done comparisons on both soaps to see if how well super presoak desolves the traffic film and it does what it was made to do.
Love it, and continue to buy it.
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
I’m not convinced this is need as the polish step does this (as does the clay)

Like you - I like to reduce steps while maintaining pro-grade results. I believe you're correct when you think that a mechaniclal polishing step can replace an Iron Remover and also a Decon Wash.

IF - if you're going to do at least one machine polishing step then here's what I would do.

Step 1: Thorough washing of wheels, tires and wheel wells.
Step 2: Thorough Prep Wash with 3D Super Pre-Soak
Step 3: Normal Prep Wash with 3D Pink Soap.
Step 4: After thorough rinse - mechanically decontaminate paint with clay towel

After the above - do your normal machine polishing step. As long as you're using one of the below, anything still ON the paint will be removed - including iron contamination, traffic film, swirls, scratches, old waxes, sealants and even coatings, etc.


While I have your ear…. I’m switching over to 3D products (already using one, speed, and towel kleen). None of my Canadian retailers are selling supersoak. Is this a 3D decision or an individual retailer decision?

That would be an individual store decision. My guess is they don't see this as a high turnover product and for this reason don't bring it in. Just a guess.


:)
 

Cdn_detailer

New member
Like you - I like to reduce steps while maintaining pro-grade results. I believe you're correct when you think that a mechaniclal polishing step can replace an Iron Remover and also a Decon Wash.

IF - if you're going to do at least one machine polishing step then here's what I would do.

Step 1: Thorough washing of wheels, tires and wheel wells.
Step 2: Thorough Prep Wash with 3D Super Pre-Soak
Step 3: Normal Prep Wash with 3D Pink Soap.
Step 4: After thorough rinse - mechanically decontaminate paint with clay towel

After the above - do your normal machine polishing step. As long as you're using one of the below, anything still ON the paint will be removed - including iron contamination, traffic film, swirls, scratches, old waxes, sealants and even coatings, etc.




That would be an individual store decision. My guess is they don't see this as a high turnover product and for this reason don't bring it in. Just a guess.


:)
Why no iron remover? Honeslty I always thought they were a marketing gimmick until I used it once and saw all the purple.

is supersoak that good at removing iron? Or is an iron remover only needed once? (Provided regular polishing).

and honestly I’m not polishing (perfect finish) I’m “super paint cleaning”. shiny paint, clean windows, black tires.
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
Why no iron remover? Honeslty I always thought they were a marketing gimmick until I used it once and saw all the purple.

Iron removers are the real deal - that said, if I'm going to compound a car - any contamination on the surface is going to be removed via the compounding step - thus using the iron remover would be effective but also redundant.


is supersoak that good at removing iron? Or is an iron remover only needed once? (Provided regular polishing).

Super Pre-Soak is going to remove road grime and traffic film and embedded in the layer of road grime and/or traffic film will be iron contamination. So "yes" Super Pre Soak will remove iron contamination via a chemical/mechanical means but not like an iron remover, which is formulated to dissolve iron contamination.


and honestly I’m not polishing (perfect finish) I’m “super paint cleaning”. shiny paint, clean windows, black tires.

Copy that - the most important thing any of us can do to make the paint on our vehicles last longer is keep it clean and free from contamination. Contamination leads to corrosion.


:)
 
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