Mike Phillips BIG 3-day detailing classes

Speed and Poxy

jayfro

New member
Saturday was the semi-annual polishing of the Acura. I have typically used a different onestep AIO but I’ve always wanted to try 3D Speed since it gets rave reviews anywhere you look and now that Mike P is at 3D, I felt it was only natural to use it…and I was NOT disappointed!

First off, the car was in very good shape before I started except for a few areas and after I clayed the car using a Fine Mitt from Nanoskin, it was only natural that it had to be polished! I almost didn’t clay the car since it still really looked good but the “baggie test” revealed I’ve been driving a fine grit sandpaper Acura TLX for a while!!

Process:

Decontamination using Meguiars Iron Remover
Washed Car using P&S Pearl Soap
Clayed using the Nanoskin Fine Mitt with Griots Speed Shine . I tried using the Sonus Fine Clay but it really had no impact unless I really pressed hard on it, so I grabbed the Mitt and breezed over the horizontal surfaces, vertical surfaces were good.
Washed the car again to clean up the Speed Shine.

Since this was my first time using Speed and trading messages with Mike P, I determined I was going to try the LC White Pads since the paint was still in decent shape other than the marring that came from claying the car and I’ve used the White Pads in the past with great success. My test spot on the hood was two passes left and right, two passes up and down, and two more left and right with moderate pressure….this was the ticket! I found that Speed was very easy to work with, no dusting, long working time, and I could tell by the passes that Speed was very consistent, looked “creamy” (I can’t think of another word) with each pass. The wipe off was very easy as I would do three panels at a time (new pad per panel) then go back to wipe them off, this was done only because my DA was getting very hot and I wanted it to cool down so not to burn up any pads.

In the spirit of saving time and trying to beat the heat, I started applying Poxy by hand using a small MF Pad as I would wipe off Speed on the panels.

As I got to the front end, I’ve been noticing that my headlights look like they’ve been partially sanded down by road dust/debris. In the spirit of experimentation, I grabbed a LC Orange Pad, applied an “ample amount” of Speed towards the center of the pad since the areas I would be working with was fairly narrow and went to town! I started with moderate pressure on the highest speed setting and notice a little correction, so instead of moderate pressure, I went full tilt and was basically standing on my DA but making sure the pad was still turning, I have never applied that amount pressure to my DA, it was a heck of a workout, in the end it cleaned them up very well and I’ll probably go back and hit the sides of the headlights after taping off the panel.

Once the car was corrected, I grabbed my new bottle of Poxy and applied a few drops to a Black LC Pad and hit the rest of the panels that I did not do by hand, again very easy to apply and very consistent in the “cream”. Afterwards, it was lunchtime and time to cool off from the brutal humidity and heat!

About 45-50 minutes passed since I applied Poxy using the DA, the other half of the car had been sitting for about 75 minutes +/-. I grabbed a couple of plush MF Towel, one for the wipe and the other for the buff, wipe off wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be which I though was really odd. The panels that had been sitting the longest, the wipe off was fairly easy but not “wipe on wipe off” easy, it took a little effort, not a ton but harder than I thought it would be. The other side of the car was a little more difficult but I made it through…I thought I gave it enough curing time but with the conditions being normal for Houston (mid 90’s and humid) maybe it needed to sit longer.

After the wipe off was finished, I pulled the car outside in the sun, walked to my neighbor’s yard and gazed at my work, checking the different angles in the sub. One of the first things I noticed was that I could see the metal flakes in the paint from my neighbor’s yard, never seen that before that far away!

As I got closer to the car, I noticed the wipe off didn’t go as planned, it appeared to be smearing across the panel where I wiped and it looked a little “blotchy” on the different panel, this was only on the side that I applied it using the DA, the other side of the car I couldn’t tell because the sun wasn’t shining on that side of the car. I grabbed my trusty MF towel again and started to wipe off again, not much luck. I changed to a shorter nap MF towel and it worked a little better but I was running out of time since I had to pick-up my wife from work that evening.

The next morning, I went back out and wiped it down again using the shorter nap MF towel, I really couldn’t tell if I was making any progress since I was in the Garage and the lighting is not ideal for inspecting a cars paint. I went to the gym afterwards, getting out of the car, I stood back and inspected the paint with the sun as my light, it seemed to have corrected itself either by towel or by curing, not really sure…and I didn’t care either as long as it looked good….and boy does it look good!!!

If I was scoring Speed and Poxy, Speed would be 5 star and Poxy would be 4 star just from the simple fact that the wipe off for ME was more difficult than expected but I sure do like the look of the car!!

I'm really looking forward to correcting my wife’s White X3 with Speed that the paint is much more difficult to correct than my car and applying Poxy to it.

Mike and All…is it alright to apply a second coat of Poxy or stick a fork in it and call it completed? If I do apply another coat and given the conditions how long should I wait before wiping off?

Thank you for the product recommendations…your advice is always spot on!

Jay
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Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
About 45-50 minutes passed since I applied Poxy using the DA, the other half of the car had been sitting for about 75 minutes +/-. I grabbed a couple of plush MF Towel, one for the wipe and the other for the buff, wipe off wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be which I though was really odd.

Hmm... I've never had a problem wiping off POXY and in fact it's always been super easy. And this is inside an air conditioned garage and in non-air-conditioned garages - but I never wait this long before wiping off.

Try a test of applying by machine like you did - wait about 10 minutes and then wipe off.


Mike and All…is it alright to apply a second coat of Poxy or stick a fork in it and call it completed? If I do apply another coat and given the conditions how long should I wait before wiping off?

Me personally? I do a great job of applying ONE application of any finishing wax and then call it good.

Thank you for the product recommendations…your advice is always spot on!

Jay

Thanks Jay - just trying to keep detailing real-world.

Apologies for the late reply - been working on some hot projects with fast approaching deadlines and now leaving for England tomorrow morning.


:)
 

jayfro

New member
Mike,

Thank you for the reply!!

According to the directions, I believe it says to wait at least 30-40 minutes...if not longer, hence leaving it on the car that long! I may try a test spot on the car this evening to see what it does!!

Enjoy your trip to England!

JF
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
Mike,

Thank you for the reply!!

According to the directions, I believe it says to wait at least 30-40 minutes...if not longer, hence leaving it on the car that long! I may try a test spot on the car this evening to see what it does!!

Enjoy your trip to England!

JF

I'll have to check into that as I walk out the door. That seems like a long time.

:)
 

jayfro

New member
I looked at the bottle again last night, said leave on for 15 minutes, longer the better. I reapplied to a section of the rear quarter panel last night, let it sit for 10-15 minutes and wipe off was effortless!!

Thank you for the advice.

Enjoy England!

JF
 
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jayfro

New member
Mike,

A couple of things!

First off, the car has never looked as good it does now since using Speed and Poxy a few weeks ago. The shine and reflections from inside the car looking at the hood looks absolutely amazing!! I did have to repolish the hood since there were a few imperfections I wanted to get out.

In regards to Poxy, since I repolished the hood I went ahead and applied a second coat to the entire car. I waited right at 10 minutes +/- and the wiped off. The wipe off was again difficult, seemed liked it smeared across the panel. I tried a couple of different mf towels with little improvement, I decided to leave it alone, let it sit over night and take a look the next day. The next day, grabbed another mf towel and did a quick wipe off, smearing was gone!

I was working in the garage with the door open, it was hot and very humid...very similar to Stuart weather so I'm guessing the humidity is wreaking havoc to Poxy...as well as a few other sealants I've played with.

Jay
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
I was working in the garage with the door open, it was hot and very humid...very similar to Stuart weather so I'm guessing the humidity is wreaking havoc to Poxy...as well as a few other sealants I've played with.

Jay

Hi Jay,

Apologies but I just haven't experienced this myself. I'm not saying it's not happening just that I have not experienced this characteristic.


Here's two cars I did full exterior details including machine applying 3D POXY in open-air garages here in Stuart, Florida. both of these were back in the fall, November/December time frame. It's much cooler with less humidity during this time and perhaps that's why I experienced no issues?


One technique tip I know is important when using any NON-cleaning wax or what I always refer to as a "Show Car" wax or a "Finishing" wax - is to apply thin coats. Thick coats simply wastes product, takes longer to dry and makes removal more difficult.


1961 Chrysler New Yorker Original Single Stage Paint restored by Mike Phillips

Open air garage


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]In the picture below what you see is a thin, machine applied layer of 3D POXY over the entire car.

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1968 Chevelle - Remove water spots and holograms - detailed by Mike Phillips with 3D Products

Open air garage

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Here's a picture showing the machine pattern from applying POXY with the 3D 8mm free spinning random orbital polisher to the Chevelle.

Thin Layer of Wax
This is what you want to see - a thin, uniform layer of product. More product doesn't add more protection as you're simply going to wipe the excess off. A thin layer, well applied, protects just as well as a thick layer but the benefit is a thin layer will dry faster and wipe-off easier.

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:)
 

Mike Phillips

Global Director of Training
Staff member
Thank you for the reply Mike. I might've been applying a "tick" or two too much!

Jay

Copy that. Finishing waxes have the ability to be applied thin.

I don't normally prime pads anymore for any product but instead let the use of the pad become the prime step.

With a finishing wax - once you apply enough to do a single body panel, for example the hood - after that you only need to apply a few dime sized drops.

When moving to a new body panel - apply a few dime sized drops of POXY and then cover the entire panel. If you use your ambient light you should be able to see a very thin layer of wax and that's all you need.

There's an old trick where you press the face of the pad against glass like the windshield or a side window and this will show you if there's wax on the pad or if you're dry buffing. I don't ever remember seeing a pad leave nothing meaning once you break in a pad with your finishing wax a little bit goes a long ways.


:)
 
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